First impressions: this historic house in the heart of the Cinque Port town of Rye has been beautifully restored as a six-bedroom hotel by its proprietors, Ron and Jo Kingsland. Very civilised: fresh flowers on the reception desk, and the books in the bedrooms and residents’ lounge are literature, not potboilers.

Why it’s special: the perfect “bolt hole” for Londoners — just 70 miles away through the Kent and Sussex countryside. Easy striking distance from the celebrated gardens at Sissinghurst (Vita Sackville-West and Harold Nicholson) and Great Dixter (Christopher Lloyd).

Hitting the sack: we had the River Room, looking out over a small, bird-filled garden (breakfast served here in the summer) to the “salts” (land created as the sea receded leaving Rye high and dry) and the River Rother, where yachts and busy fishing boats come and go.

Sampling the fare: a great English breakfast, with eggs so wondrously large and orange-yolked that a visiting American chicken farmer wanted to know the type of hens that laid them. Mrs Kingsland will cook suppers (by request in advance) and cater for small dinner parties.

Star attraction: forget the shallow folk who now pass as “celebs”. The Duke of Wellington (a friend of Sir William Durrant, after whom the hotel is named) and John Wesley both visited.

Access all areas: no wheelchair access — the house (with its 1,000-year-old cellars) is too venerable for adaptation.

What we think: more than holds its own in a town of stiff B&B competition.

The bottom line: B&B from £50 single occupancy of double room, to £90 double occupancy of River Room with four-poster. Minimum two nights at weekends.

Need to know: Durrant House Hotel (01797 223182, www.durranthouse.com ), 2 Market Street, Rye, East Sussex.

Times recommends

• The 50 little luxuries of travel
• The 10 best destinations for 2009
• Iceland: travel sale of the century