NICHOLAS ALVIS VEGA and Liza Bruce have been burgled many times since they moved into their house in Jaipur. Things became so bad that they had to lock their kitchen every night. However, they do not seek to punish the intruders. They have become rather fond of the little gang of monkeys who regularly break in to steal their groceries, regarding it as all part of the quirky charm of having a home in India.

Owning a home in Rajasthan has many attractions. The region evokes an Arabian Nights world of magical desert towns and cities, camel markets, bustling bazaars and people in vivid clothes. The area is dotted with the extravagant palaces and forts of the warrior clans and feudal lords who ruled the region for centuries.

Many of the centuries-old houses in the region are now empty because laws for selling the family home are complicated, and because most Rajasthanis prefer new properties. The haveli is one of the most appealing styles of property in Rajasthan and there are many of these beautiful houses going to ruin. Similar in style to a Moroccan riad, the splendour of the building is hidden from the public eye. A typical haveli (such as the one, right, at Nawalgarh) is on several floors and will have at least two internal courtyards designed to segregate the men and women. Another distinctive feature of the haveli is the intricate frescos on the walls and ceilings.

While it is possible for a British national to buy a house in Rajasthan, it is not easy and will almost certainly require great perseverance. For those who succeed, the rewards can be great — a run-down haveli would cost about £50,000 — and a traditional home in Rajasthan is likely to be a very good financial investment.

Five years ago Vega, an artist, and Bruce, a designer, were living in Los Angeles. Their neighbours mentioned that they were going to Rajasthan and, on a whim, Vega and Bruce decided to join them. They had no idea that the holiday would be the start of an enduring love affair. “We felt really inspired on our trip,” said Vega. “The light was so intense and it felt as if everything had been illuminated. In Rajasthan the people are not scared of bold colours and use them unashamedly. We knew that it would be a really fulfilling and creative experience to spend more time there.”

The couple set off on their quest to find a property for sale, but they soon realised that it was not going to be easy. There were no estate agents and they had to rely on locals to help them find their new home. “We said we didn’t want to see any new houses,” said Vega. “But every day they would look at each other conspiratorially and then whisk us off to yet another middle-class area with brand-new bungalows for sale. Finally, I lost my temper and shouted at them and, somehow, I gained instant respect. We were never taken to a new property again.”

They were finally taken to view a ten-room apartment that was once the men’s quarters of an 1880 mansion designed by the British architect Sir Swinton Jacob, just inside the gates of the city of Jaipur. “The rooms were enormous and had great vistas,” said Vega. “And the vast roof terrace had the most incredible view of the city. Although it was really run-down, we could see that it would make a fantastic home.”

It soon became clear that it was going to be a complicated and drawn-out process to buy the property, so the couple decided to start by negotiating a rental agreement. They settled on a rent of about £300 a month and their Indian adventure began. They spent several months camping out in the house while they made plans to renovate their new home.

“We bought everything for the house locally or had it made,” Vega said. “There is so much inspiration here and so many great craftsmen. Liza and I have really relished the experience and it has had a major impact on our work.”

In true Rajasthan tradition, their home is now a riot of colour. The rooms are painted lime green, hot pink and bright orange, and rugs and sequined pillows are strewn over the white marble floors. The couple soon realised that they would be spending a lot of their time outdoors and they erected a large red tent on the roof terrace so that they could eat al fresco and sleep there. Their home is now a comfortable, eclectic mix where East meets West. Their efforts have been appreciated and they have been welcomed into the community. “The local people are intrigued by us,” Vega said. “There are so few Europeans living here and they seem to find us rather fascinating and are always asking us about our habits. It has been a privilege to experience living in India and our neighbours have been extremely friendly and welcoming.”

They are in the process of buying their home and hope to conclude the transaction in the next few months. They now spend six months of the year working and living in India. “It has been a quirky, chaotic, creative experience,” said Vega. “We get such a thrill every time we return here — and I think the monkeys are rather pleased when we come back too.”

• The property expert Nigel Leck, of the BBC One programme Uncharted Territory, says: “While it is quite difficult for foreigners to buy property in India, thousands of overseas investors do buy property there each year.

  “Potential purchasers will have to comply with national, state and local law. To make matters even more complex, there is also the Hindu Unified Family Law, which states that the family home belongs to all members of the family and can be sold only in extreme circumstances.

  “Because there are so many different laws, it is important to view each property as an individual situation. The main advice for potential purchasers would be to do their research in the UK and find an up-to-date, top-notch legal company that has offices in India.

  Indian summer

  Four-bed villas, from £49,800 in Goa, via Keith Morling Property Management, 020-8541 1030, www.findaproperty.com. Or a three-bed apartment is for sale for £83,000 in Gurgaon, near Delhi. www.coolcaves.com 0800 8497255

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