Zoe Dare Hall
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Turned off by snootiness of the Parisians, overwhelmed by all those tourists in Florence or baffled by the buzz about Barcelona? If you are looking for a European bolt hole, you don’t have to confine yourself to the old familiar places. Widen the search a little and there are plenty of other cities that are just as easy to reach – and where prices will be lower than in more established destinations. Choose your property well and it will pay its way as a holiday home when you’re not there. Here’s our pick of up-and-coming European cities – though, if you have set your heart on one of the classics, look at last week’s guide at timesonline.co.uk/overseasproperty.
Lisbon
A 2½ hour flight from London, the Portuguese capital has undergone a huge transformation in the past decade, with elegant shops springing up across the city, charming new hotels in refurbished historical buildings and the regeneration of old parts of the city such as Parque Mayer and Santos, where Norman Foster’s practice is building a futuristic development including a residential tower.
“Lisbon has immense old-world charm, a great climate, beaches 15 minutes away and a huge array of leisure and cultural options,” says Alma Wright, manager of the IRG agency (00 351 210 305022, www.irgportugal.com), which has high-spec two-bedroom flats in a converted historical building in the picturesque Chiado area for £440,000. “Property in the city is still reasonably priced - £3,300-£5,000 per square metre in prime areas such as Lapa and Estrela.”
Andrew Hawkins, head of the international department at Chesterton International (020 3040 8210, www.chesterton-international.com) is seeing new interest from top-end buyers. One newly renovated building is Santa Catarina, a condominium complex where one-bedroom flats start at £500,000.
“Visitor numbers and business activity are up, and a new airport is being built, which will increase transport links and accessibility,” Hawkins says. For those looking to let out their properties, one- bedroom flats fetch about £450 a week and two-bedders about £550 in high season (April to October), according to Holidaylettings.co.uk, an online holiday rental company.
Dubrovnik
The Croatian port city has become achingly fashionable in the past decade - with prices to match. The Knight Frank agency says that average prices in Dubrovnik are £1,820 per square metre, but you can pay as much as £9,800 within the walled old town.
The market has slid by 20%-30% this year, bringing a necessary correction, but housing values look certain to hold in the longer term, in part because the surrounding hills limit the scope for expansion. There are few forced sellers, at least among the locals. Croatians are “proud people who don’t usually have mortgages and have often inherited their house, so they aren’t desperate to sell”, says Jelena Cvjetkovic, head of the Croatia and Montenegro desk at Savills.
The rental market is also good, especially for flats with all mod cons in sensitively renovated old buildings. “We have a three-bedroom townhouse renting out for £380 a day,” Cvjetkovic says. “A one-bedroom, 33-square-metre flat will command £85 a night.”
It is virtually impossible to find small one-bedders to renovate in the old town any more, but Dream Croatia (www.dreamcroatia.com), an associate of Savills estate agency, has the finished product - a 33-square-metre studio in a 16th-century palace - for £195,000. The same agency is selling a stylish two-bedroom flat overlooking the cathedral for £440,000.
The buying process in Croatia is slow and bureaucratic: registering a property in your name can take up to 12 months and many foreign buyers find it easier to set up a Croatian company and buy through that instead (although this can mean administrative costs). These rules are set to change in February, with the intention of making the property-buying process easier.
Palma
All that most tourists on the way to the beaches of Mallorca see of the island’s capital is its airport, which is a shame. It boasts a great location, a fantastic climate and is also a very Spanish city. Julian Harris, a lawyer from Richmond, southwest London, bought his first property there five years ago, a three- bedroom, £165,000 new-build flat in Portixol, a former fishermen’s district with new beachfront cycle paths and trendy restaurants.
“I use it a lot for main holidays and long weekends, and rent it out occasionally, mainly to friends and family,” says Harris, 53. “Palma is an incredibly attractive city, right on the sea, with a perfect climate and everything you want commercially and culturally.” He likes the city so much, he has just bought two more flats, for £420,000 each, in a converted building near the cathedral. He plans to rent them out as long-term lets for £1,000 each a month.
Mallorca has not been immune to the downturn on the Spanish mainland, with many properties seeing price reductions of about 20% over the past year. Terence Panton, director of the Palma office of Engel & Völkers (00 34-971 214140, www.engelvolkers.es), says one- and two-bedroom flats are available for £150,000-£200,000.
Nick Russell-Hughes, a partner at Cluttons Mallorca, warns that recent legislation, introduced to protect the hotel industry, means you need a licence to rent property on the island on a short-term basis. In practice, though, “there is little the authorities can do about you letting a friend or family stay, with them putting expense money under the milk bottle when they leave”. The agency has renovated properties in the old town, with prices starting at £168,000 for a one-bedroom flat (971 734073, www.cluttonsmallorca.com).
Marrakesh
Cheap flights and a huge government-backed tourism drive have turned Marrakesh from a bohemian bolt hole into a popular second-home destination. With its new five-star out-of-town golf resorts, it is as likely to attract City players as culture-loving buyers who want to immerse themselves in an old-town riad.
Chris Monroe, 48, an oil trader from Bradfield, in Berkshire, has bought a five-bed villa at the 700-acre Samanah Country Club for £758,000 through Bridgehouse International, (0845 450 7358; www.bridgehouseinternational.com), mainly because of the golf course, which will, he claims, be the best in Morocco. “I love the city, but the medina is too busy for me,” Monroe says. “Samanah is only 15 minutes from the centre, and the views of the Atlas Mountains from the villa are stunning. We’ll use the property as a family second home and I’ll rent it out for a few weeks each year to cover the annual costs.”
Philip Arnott, director of Moroccan Properties (00 212 24 430465, www.moroccan-properties.com), has seen prices in Marrakesh grow since 2001 - but here, too, the market is softening. “Prices have dropped by 15% [from their peak], fewer projects are being built and discounts of up to 15% can be negotiated,” he says. A fourbed renovatedriadin the medina starts at £270,000 and can be let for between £70 and £250 a night. Allow an extra 6% for buying costs.
Istanbul
Anyone who has attempted to drive from one side of Istanbul to the other will appreciate that, in this mega-city spanning two continents, you need to pick your area carefully. Traffic jams apart, areas of the historical centre such as Beyoglu and Galata, which have the most obvious appeal to those looking for an exotic, lively city bolt hole, bear little relation to the multimillion-pound villas on the banks of the Bos-phorus, which in turn are a world apart from the tower blocks springing up in the endless, uninspiring suburbs, where foreign investors are buying cheap and renting to the locals.
The average price in the city centre is between £1,000 and £1,500 per square metre, but houses on the riverfront go for a Mayfair-style £13,000 per square metre. Turkeypropertyforsale.com has a two-bedroom flat in Taksim, a busy central area, for £51,000 and a three-bedroom flat in a restored historical building in Galata, with views of the Golden Horn peninsula, for £143,000.
“Property prices are now static after two years of 20%-plus growth, fuelled by demand and more widely available cheap mortgages,” says Dominic Whiting, the owner and editor of Buying in Turkey (www.buyingin.co.uk). “The fundamentals are still good, as there is a housing shortage and a rapidly growing population.”
Rental returns may, however, be limited by the relative cheapness of the city’s hotels. Holidaylettings.co.uk says properties advertised on its site rent out for about £250 a week.
Although buying costs will add only a relatively modest 6%, be sure to employ a good solicitor, as many properties have been built or altered without permission. A further complication is new legislation that stops foreigners buying in historic conservation areas, including parts of Beyoglu and Galata, though this is being challenged in court.
Cracow
The charm of Cracow’s old town, crowned by Rynek Glowny, a huge medieval square, takes the Polish city beyond the realm of pure investment (for that, stick to Warsaw) and into pricey bolt-hole territory. Knight Frank says that prime old-town properties command up to £5,500 a square metre - even more than Prague.
After rises of more than 50% in 2006, and again last year, the market appears to have burnt itself out – and prices are going down again. For £156,000, Property Krakow Group (00 48 12 426 5126, www.property-krakow.com) has a three-bedroom flat five minutes from the main square and the Jewish quarter, Kazimierz, where local authorities are investing heavily in renovating former warehouses.
Flats in Eleven, a new development in Kazimierz with parking, a concierge and a sauna, start at £227,000, while a two-bedroom, 100-square-metre flat in a converted fin de siècle building near the old town is priced at £260,000, both through www.cracowonline.com.
Tom Leach, who runs the website Accessionapartments.com, which specialises in tourist rentals, says a 25% drop in visitor numbers this year has dented the short-term lettings market. “To keep business coming in, you need to offer a more western level of customer service, responding quickly to inquiries and being flexible over changeover times,” says Leach, who has one-bedroom flats to let for £70 a night.

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