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On a Saturday morning, you can see them everywhere across the land. Eyes fixed on the middle distance, shoulders slumped, plastic bag dangling from each hand. It is the familiar sight of Homo Sapiens in John Lewis, while Mrs Sapiens does the shopping for soft furnishings.
Look closely and you will see she’s holding a swatch of baby-blue ticking for his inspection.
“What do you think?” “Yes, it’s lovely, let’s get that one,” he says, his voice drained of all emotion, his heart set on beating the traffic and getting back in time for Football Focus.
Mrs S may be the one asking the questions, but you don’t have to be an anthropologist to see who is making the decisions. Mr S would be perfectly happy to floor every room with lino and paint every wall in magnolia. An Englishman’s home may be his castle, but when it comes to the ruching and stippling of the crenellations, it’s the Englishwoman who calls the shots.
’Twas ever thus. Or was it? A new exhibition at the Geffrye Museum, in east London – Choosing the Chintz: Men, Women and Furnishing the Home, from 1850 to the Present – suggests otherwise.
For all his devotion to empire, rough woollen garments next to the skin and robust heterosexuality, Victorian man was surprisingly metrosexual once he got the other side of the portcullis. When it came to decoration, he controlled the purse strings. After all, until the Married Woman’s Property Acts of 1882 and 1897, married women couldn’t own property in their own right.
Men had tremendous sway over decorating the “male” parts of the house, such as the library, study and smoking room. And over the dining room, which was used for all-male discussions after dinner, as well as being the place where Victorian dad told his son off for being caught with a copy of Ankles Weekly or Billiard Table Legs, Fully Exposed.
“I’ve never found any evidence for the legend of Victorian men covering up table legs,” says Christine Lalumia, deputy director of the Geffrye Museum.
“But they certainly had traditional, sombre, masculine tastes when they decorated their rooms.”
Among the objects on show is a Cowtan wallpaper book from 1860, with strips of paper for each room in the Kent home of the Reverend Edward Moore. The colour that the vicar chose for the dining room is a deep, velvety red – the classic male choice, then. Indeed, picture after picture shows the paterfamilias centre stage in the house he decorated himself, with his family ranged behind him. The decor is classically male: that deep-red wallpaper, packed bookshelves, walls cluttered with pictures and loads of brown furniture.
The hard-wiring of the male mind towards collecting and cataloguing was also catered for by the trade boom. Among the objects on show is a collector’s cabinet, stuffed to the gills with fossils found and sorted in 1858 by a nephew of Charles Darwin. It is only a short leap to the alphabeticised record collection – that exclusively male habit nailed by Nick Hornby in his 1995 novel High Fidelity.
Even Oscar Wilde – who you might have thought above such conventions, for both sexual and artistic reasons – followed male decorating patterns. When he said on his deathbed in a Parisian hotel, “My wallpaper and I are fighting a duel to the death. One or other of us has got to go”, it was to a light, floral chintz that he was objecting.
Chintz had once been much valued as an Indian cotton cloth printed with flower designs. By the time of Wilde’s death in 1900, however, it had long since become a term of abuse for naff, girlie, floral patterns. As early as 1851, George Eliot equated chintzy with being unbecoming.
The supposed girliness of the world of interior decoration got going only in the 20th century. After the Representation of the People Act 1918, women over the age of 30 were allowed to vote. By the 1930s, they had the right to pledge their own credit.
And, as the servant class disintegrated, shopping – once the preserve of the maid and the cook – became an increasingly respectable activity for middle-class women, In 1851, there were 115,000 women between 15 and 20 years old in London and the suburbs, 40,000 of them in domestic service. Between 1911 and 1921, the number of servants in the capital’s commuter belt fell by 50%.
As a result of all this, middle-class women began to assert control over their houses for the first time. By the 1920s, Furnishings, the leading journal for the decorating trade, was declaring: “Woman is the purchaser of at least 90% of the furnishings for the home.”
By the end of the second world war, the transformation of the house from Victorian male den to matriarchal warren was complete. Julie Summers writes in her new book, Stranger in the House: Women’s Stories of Men Returning from the Second World War, that sales of garden sheds rocketed as 4m demobilised men came back to an unrecognisably female home and sought comfort behind unadorned walls of creosoted timber.
“The 1950s were the height of female domination in interior decor,” she says. “The profession of interior decorator got going in the 1920s and 1930s. The 1950s saw the emergence of celebrity female decorators such as Nancy Lancaster [1897-1994], the owner of Colefax and Fowler. Only later did the men creep in, as they always do. And you even got a change of name. They became known as interior designers – much more male and professional sounding.”
For all the misery of our man in John Lewis, the pendulum has been swinging back, in recent years, away from female domination. In a series of videos at the end of the Geffrye’s show, seven couples, from those in their thirties to those in their seventies, talk about which of them makes the decorating decisions.
The older men confine themselves to the technical – where the stereo speakers should go, how you get to the garage – while women dominate the cushion-plumping front. The younger men – heads fashionably shaved, conscious of what constitutes taste in every aspect of their lives – are much more vocal about how their home should look.
This shared decision-making leads to houses that are neither male nor female – the modern rooms in the videos have monochrome, boxy, simple furniture and blank walls illuminated by uplit pools of stark, white light.
The deep-red Victorian-man walls are gone, unless you’re a barrister decorating your chambers. Or a bit of a fogey. Going, too, is the consciously girlie look. Take a look at the Laura Ashley catalogue these days – there’s barely a floral motif to be seen. Its catalogue could have been shot in a hedge-fund manager’s house in Notting Hill: spare armchairs tightly upholstered in Damien Hirst-style dots perch on stripped floorboards beneath staircases with no banisters, cantilevered into exposed brick walls.
Homo Sapiens has begun to shake off his shopping gloom and is preparing to meet Mrs Sapiens halfway – in the minimalist section of the John Lewis soft-furnishings department.
The Geffrye Museum is at 136 Kingsland Road, London E2; open Tuesday to Saturday 10am-5pm, Sunday noon-5pm. Choosing the Chintz is on until February 22, 2009; www.geffrye-museum.org.uk
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