I've always liked a spontaneous BBQ: if the sun is shining it's off to the supermarket to grab a disposable BBQ “tray”. Now that I live in the country it seemed time to get serious - one of those gas-burning numbers with instant heat and control over the temperature. The Argos AG02 came in a curiously small box. It contained a 16-page instruction manual and 44 parts that needed screwing together. No problem, I thought. The sun's out, it's 4.30pm and dinner isn't until 7pm. Two hours later, after following instructions such as “Attach bottom shelf (C3) to Legs (C1/C2) using M6*48 bolts (D5) and M6 nuts (D7)”, it was finally set up. No time for a beer or marinades today. A tight smile for the Times photographer with a raw sausage and then a mad dash to the garage to buy a canister of gas. But which one? Nowhere in the manual did it say. I tried two sorts: neither fitted. My time had run out. Reluctantly, it was back to the supermarket for a disposable BBQ. The sausages are finally served after 8pm.

Hero's verdict: One star

Argos two-burner gas barbecue: £49.99 argos.co.uk , 0845 6402020

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