Grab an Italian masterpiece for less
We can grow many of the vegetables that are staples of the Italian cuisine — for instance, courgettes (both the fruit and the flowers can be used), aubergines, garlic, peppers and tomatoes.
We can also steal some of the Italians’ growing techniques. With artichokes, for instance, the central choke of each plant is known as the “mother” (mamma or mammolella): in order to keep them tender and pale and to protect them from the sun and frost, the growers of Campania cover each mother with a small terracotta hat, or pignatella. The resulting artichokes are exceptionally tender. The “hats” can be handmade from fired clay, or substituted with tin cans.
Fava — or broad — beans are favourites of central and southern Italy and are often grown beneath olive groves and fruit trees. For bushier plants, try earthing up the stalks as they grow, encouraging side shoots to grow.
When the shoot is 4in high, pile dry soil around it to about 3in, watering only at the base, or the shoots will rot. This method does away with the need for staking, as the central stalk becomes strong enough to withstand wind.
The same process can also be applied to fennel — cover the bulb but leave the feathery fronds free. As the bulb grows, repeat the process. The bulbs are much sweeter and less bitter than those that have not been earthed up.
In Italy, the cuttings from vine shoots are tied into bundles, or fascie, and laid between rows of peas — but you could try other twiggy prunings. The peas cling to the vine stalks or twigs, spreading out sideways instead of upwards for easier picking.
In Campania, the bundles are tied — as are so many things in Italian gardens — with the long, pruned shoots of yellow willow: most vegetable gardens have at least one willow in situ for use as string.
Other important elements are herbs that thrive in the heat: rosemary grows wild on the Amalfi coast, where it sometimes does not rain for several months. The narrow leaves store winter water and absorb humidity from the evening air. Rosemary likes a sheltered, sunny spot in the garden, protected from freezing winds in winter. Once a plant is established, it can survive for years, so allow it space.
Wild fennel is more aromatic than bulb fennel, and its seeds are used to flavour sauces and sausages. Two or three plants are sufficient for home use, and can be planted in among other herbs.
Borage gives colour as well as food: use the vibrant blue flowers in salads, and the tender young leaves as a filling with ricotta for pasta; or boil them with dandelion and other edible weeds as a vegetable, dressed simply with olive oil and lemon juice. Borage self-seeds easily, so plant it in a part of the garden where it can spread naturally and be kept under control.
With little water available in summer, Mediterranean gardeners have come up with a number of water-saving practices, methods that we can adopt in this summer’s drought. Vegetables are often planted between grooved trenches about 8in-10in.
Once the plants have become established, the watering can be done efficiently via these canals. Another trick is to plant any vegetables requiring more water close together, so water is used efficiently for those groups.
Mulching is another way of gardening in hot climates, useful for water retention, soil enrichment and keeping weeds down. Always mulch on well- watered soils, mixing grass cuttings with coarser material so as not to allow the grass to matt and compact.
Watering is best done via the roots, as opposed to sprinkling the leaves, which may encourage rotting or burning in the sun. Water in early morning or at night, so as to avoid evaporation by the sun, and water wastage. In intensely sunny sites, planting vegetables in light or dappled shade also helps to prevent them being burned or dried out by midday sun.
The Campania garden is at site GPD10 in the Great Pavilion
The Food and Wine Guide to Naples and Campania by Carla Capalbo is published by Pallas Athene (£14.99)
The Italian Seed Company has an offer of £1 per packet of seed, with free p&p for orders of more than £10. Visit www.italianseedcompany.co.uk
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