A few years ago I was giving a talk about garden design and trying to persuade anyone with a tiny patch of muddy lawn to dig it up and put down a more practical surface and then soften it with plenty of planting.

The fact is that if a lawn is too small or shaded it simply will not thrive. Instead it will create frustration, a disproportionate amount of misguided work and visually let down the rest of the garden. Although lawns are green they aren't that great for biodiversity because in essence they are a monoculture. Well, the response I received from some of the more mature gardeners in the audience was quite scary. It was as if I had been trying to turn the whole evening into a subversive gathering aimed at undermining the very foundations of the Great British Garden. I declined the tea and cake afterwards and made a swift exit by the back door.

I do actually love a lush lawn - and the smell of cut grass is the best, is it not? In my opinion a lawn need not be immaculately maintained; a few weeds, moss and daisies are OK, and are even beneficial to wildlife to some degree. A lawn does, however, need to be large enough or at least have an easy path round it so that it can be avoided when it's really wet, because this is when the real damage is done and the trouble starts. This is a really good time to prepare and lay a lawn using turf or prepare one to be seeded when the weather's mild enough for the seed to germinate.

Turf can be laid all through the winter and although most of us won't even have seen ours for the past fortnight, you can take advantage of cold weather by getting its roots down before the top growth really gets going, so providing a more resilient and better-looking lawn in the long run.

As with most of these things success is in the prep, and the process is pretty much the same for seed and turf, requiring a degree of unavoidable grafting. Clear the top growth of old lawn, weeds or whatever's there and then dig over the entire area with a fork (taking any weed roots out). If it's a large area consider hiring a rotavator, which will save you hours of digging. If you have a clay soil leave it for a few weeks after digging and with luck a frost will help to break it up. The key is good drainage, so incorporate plenty of sharp sand, too - the more the better, really, especially on a heavy clay soil. Consider getting it delivered in one-tonne bags by your local builder's merchant, because it will be far cheaper. This should be dug or rotavated into the soil.

When it's dry stand on boards to spread your weight and rake out the soil using a stiff, hard rake. Keep raking it till it's roughly level. You can also use lengths of string pulled taut between pegs to see where the highs and lows are and get your levels even. Once it's roughly level walk methodically over it on your heels, in lines, looking like you're doing a Monty Python silly walk. As well as amusing the neighbours it will firm the soil and prevent dips forming over time. Once finished, do the same all over again, raking and treading, till you've got the soil really firm and even. Leave the very top surface fluffy so that the roots can easily penetrate. Now it's ready to turf or seed.

Turf is always a mix of different varieties of grass. I recommend sports turfs because they are generally hard-wearing mixes and look good too. A specialist fine lawn is for the obsessive and should be avoided by mere mortals who have a life outside their garden.

Just roll the turf out on to the surface of the soil, place a wooden board on top to weigh it down - and to act as a place on which to stand for your next roll - and then butt the next one up to it firmly with some overlapping. Move across the lawn like this, staggering the joins like bricks. If you have any small gaps fill them with sand or fine soil and the grass will quickly grow together. Once it's laid make sure to water during dry periods (it's hard to overwater a lawn) and keep off it until it needs its first mow. Mow only when it's dry, and always use a sharp mower. Start on the highest setting, gradually working down over a month or two.

There you go - another Great British Lawn is born. Just think of all those more “mature” gardeners who would love to sit you down on your nice new green sward with a cup of tea and chat about these fancy new designers who just don't have what it takes to make a “proper” garden.

Six of the best for lawns

Find lawn seed for all situations - from hot spots to shady, moist areas - at www.edwintucker.com

For old and new lawns look for Lawns (Collins Practical Gardener) by Martin Fish (ISBN 000718266X) or

The Lawn Expert by D.G. Hessayon (ISBN 0903505487). Easily found new or second hand.

If you have a small lawn, why not try a push mower? Old-fashioned? A Which? recommendation is the Brill Razorcut Premium 33 push mower (£92.93) and grass collector (£19.33) from www.manualmowers.co.uk. It's quiet,affordable, made by the Germans and now rather cutting edge.

Make creating a fine tilth for spreading lawn seed and in your vegetable patch less back-breaking with the Wilkinson Sword Power Universal Rake (£24.99 at B&Q). Worth every penny.

Protect your lawn from wheelbarrows with a moveable path (£24), www.greenfingers.com

Edging shears for small and large hands at www.burgonandball.com (the website will give you your nearest stockist).

Clare Hogan

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