Autumn has cloaked my corner of the Cotswolds in russet tones and embroidered the view with pin-pricks of scarlet and vermilion where berries and hips cling to their stems. After the washout that was summer, I am praying for a golden October and looking forward to tackling some big projects before winter grips.

Some sections of the garden are coming along nicely, but it is still very much a work in progress, and a significant part of my plans involves the creation of what I can best describe as a series of garden rooms. I think I can fit four rectangular spaces into a strip of land along the southern side of the kitchen garden. Running in a straight line, they will fill the no man’s land between the veggies and the upper field. I’m aiming for a decorative buffer between the workmanlike raised beds and the uncultivated swathe of grass, thistle and nettles beyond. Each individual but interconnected space will have its own distinct character, atmosphere and colour scheme - though I’ve yet to decide what these will be.

I know that I want the “rooms” to be simply and clearly defined, even a touch formal, but, given the rural outlook, not too grand. There’s little chance of the latter, anyway, because the strip of land is narrow, so the scale of each individual room should remain in keeping with a farmhouse garden. I’m also hoping to retain something of the view across the field – tantalising glimpses to whet the appetite. My first task is to mark out the area and create the physical boundaries that will enclose each room – but with what?

I have become obsessed with how best to edge the space, and am now a seasoned voyeur of other people’s fences, walls and hedges. I briefly toyed with the idea of dry stone walls (far too costly) or woven willow panels (lovely to look at and quick to install, but ultimately short-term), but now I’m convinced that the only solution for this setting is a hedge. They are among the most satisfying visual elements in any garden. But what type to choose, and do I go for a single plant or several? Hedges, like trees, are long-term plants and part of the infrastructure of the garden. Unless you can throw money at one, buying in a run of ready-made mature plants, a hedge needs years to establish and reach maturity. Only then will it deliver the desired effect. We’ve become used to expecting instant results, so tend to fight shy of projects that demand a hefty commitment of time, but a hedge in full glory is a magnificent sight – and, I think, well worth the wait.

Here in my country garden, my first instinct is to use a native plant, something with the weight of tradition behind it. We inherited a mammoth hornbeam hedge, which provides a backdrop for the 65ft border near the house. The obvious choice is to plant more of the same. Sticking with one species would provide a visual link across all the areas of the garden – but I’d miss out on the rustle of a copper beech and would have to forgo my dream of perfectly clipped dark-green yew.

Another possibility – and one that would look at home abutting the field – is a mosaic or mixed hedge, which would echo the hedgerows in the surrounding countryside. It would also satisfy my desire to grow several types of hedging plants – and the wildlife would benefit, too. An informal mix, which might include hawthorn, dog roses and beech, certainly appeals, but would it look messy and unfocused when used as a foil for other plants in a confined space? And do I go for straight edges, a softly domed profile or a fashionably undulating top?

If you face a similar dilemma, the style and location of your garden should help to determine your choice of plants, as will the desired height of the hedge. Think carefully about whether light levels in your own or your neighbours’ gardens might be adversely affected by a high hedge – local planning restrictions may limit what you can do.

Don’t underestimate the amount of ground space a hedge will take up, either. One “reads”only the face of the hedge, so it’s easy to forget that most need at least 3ft of space in width alone. Few plants enjoy being in close proximity to its base, so allow extra depth for bordering beds.

Aesthetically, it’s a question of personal taste. Decide whether you prefer the year-round coverage of an evergreen or the fleeting joys of a deciduous hedge. Are flowers and berries an asset or an unnecessary distraction? Do you plan to create buttresses, cut openings or train your hedge around and over a gate?

While it’s doubtful that hedges cut down the amount of noise reaching a garden, I know from experience in central London that a thick evergreen one can give the feeling it is doing just that. Hedges can certainly affect the flow of air and filter wind in an exposed location, as opposed to creating an eddying effect, which often happens when air is forced up and over a wall.

Whatever type of plant you choose, it’s worth getting the hedge off to the best possible start. Mark out the site carefully, allowing for the plants’ ultimate size when fully grown. Prepare the soil, removing perennial weeds, which will be difficult to deal with once the hedge is in place, and adding copious amounts of organic material.

Soak bare-rooted plants in a bucket of water before planting in a compost-filled trench. Space the individual plants correctly – this will vary depending on what you plant – and keep checking that the row is straight as you go. Repositioning an individual plant now is easier than trying to rectify mistakes in the future.

I prefer to use young, healthy plants that adapt well to transplanting and establish quickly. Mature hedging looks impressive initially, but can sulk after the shock of being moved to a new site, so the vigorous youngster will soon catch up and overtake expensive older specimens. Container-grown plants can be planted throughout the year if one pays close attention to the watering. Bare-rooted specimens, however, are often the cheapest way to create long rows of hedging, and are best planted between late autumn and early spring, while the plants are dormant.

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