Alice Miles
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Having been growing veg for only a year – and through a hot, dry summer complete with hosepipe ban – too much water isn’t something I’ve had to contend with before now.
The place is a bog. As far as I can tell, the lettuces and spinach love the rain – as, sadly, do the weeds. I barely recognise the garden from weekend to weekend and it isn’t much fun trying to weed it in the rain. Actually, the countryside in general isn’t much fun in the rain and I fled to London for a weekend, which hasn’t helped.
The tomatoes are definitely struggling and the indoor hot-climate plants – mainly aubergines and chillies – are beginning to wither and go pale from lack of sunshine.
I can’t tell what effect the wet might be having on the carrots and all things underground, but I assume they must be gasping for some sun by now. I know I am. I can barely see the parsnip tops for weeds, nor the tiny kale seedlings, and our garlic needs to come up and dry out, but there’s been no day for weeks with enough sunshine to do it. Last year, my fennel bolted for lack of water; will it do the same this year for lack of light? I’ve no idea. I feel like a total beginner all over again.
I do have some tips from our expert gardener, Sarah Wain. It involves standing by to move protective cloches back and forth according to wind/rain/sun – rather impractical if you are 50 miles away. In a nightclub.
Without action, Sarah says, our tomatoes are likely to end up as “tasteless sacks”, as well as being hit by blight, “which can be the death knell of the whole plant”. Sod it all. There’s nothing to be done and I’m off to warmer climes for a week. By the time you read this, I’ll be back with the sunshine – fingers crossed.?
Expert advice
Tomatoes aubergines and peppers grown outside would benefit from protection from the wind and rain, which stresses the plants and stops them growing. It is best to create a guard on the windward side with some sort of cloche either designed for the purpose or created using thick polythene. The structure needs to be movable, so that when the sun comes out you can move it to one side; if the plants are really small leave it in position until sustained warmer weather is confirmed as the plants will definitely benefit from some cosiness.
Ideally with tomatoes you should control the amount of water they receive. If you have plants with ripening fruit it will suffer from too much rain/water and not enough sun. The fruit just end up as tasteless sacks, which is why tomatoes grown under glass give you a more satisfying crop.
In addition if you can keep the foliage of tomatoes dry at all times then they are not likely to suffer so much from the dreaded blight which can be the death knell of the whole plant. A copper based spray, such as Bordeaux, creates a barrier between the plant and the rain. On the downside this is not an organic solution to the problem; organic gardeners need to be devilishly clever and devise cultural methods and techniques to try and avoid the problem (hence the physical barriers).
At West Dean we have covered our latest planting of dwarf French been modules with barn cloches thinking that they would rally with wind and rain protection as they have just been planted out and you can see them respond accordingly.
Generally other crops, apart from soft fruit, are enjoying all the rain - so do weeds unfortunately so you need to keep them under control.
Sarah Wain, Gardens Supervisor, West Dean Gardens. UK
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For Alice - agree on French beans for best value in general, but the black varieties - for example trionfo violetto - have been a rave success around here in a difficult year. We bought the seeds in France but then saw them in nurseries here. The yield has been much higher than our green beans, and they seem more tolerant: if they are kept on the plant a bit too long, they do not get stringy and 'beany' nearly so quickly - and they are much are easier to find amongst the foliage!
David Reece, Brook, Kent
You ask which vegetable gives you most bang per buck. Runner beans definitely as we keep the last of the crop for next year's seeds. Ours have been going for over 30 years and came originally from my father-in-law who got his in the 50's from an old man in the village. . . . Needless to say our daughter pinched some of ours to start her crop in 2001. Otherwise beetroot that germinate well and will store in dry sand all winter or parsnip which stay in the soil over winter and whose "pickings out" either go in soups (small) or roast whole when larger. Shallots, like the runners, re-grow from the runt of last year's crop, so they are pretty cost effective.
Giles Fletcher, Alresford, UK
This is for Alice.
I have two allotments which have been under cultivation since WW2 so they have every virus and fungus going.As far as blight is concerned I would say plant early, start to spray with dithane as soon as the temperature is over 10 degrees if there has been rain and spray at ten day intervals. Choose blight resitant varieties as recommended by the British Potato Council or other lists. Wide rows or planting in blocks of three rows makes spraying without damaging the haulms easier and lets more air circulate. If you need storing potatoes plant second earlies or maincrops early in the season and harvest as soon as the skins are set. Cut the tops off to stop blight passing down the haulms and burn all tops and unusable potatoes. This year I grew Kestrel and Charlotte which were reasonably blight free, but Gabrielle and Marfona on the same plot were very badly affected.
Rosie Nichols, Norfolk,
We had potato blight on the maincrop Desiree. As Alice did, I removed all the stems and harvested the crop 1st week of August and it was really excellent crop in good health. I felt it best to remove the crop from the ground just in case there as anything in the soil likely to attack the crop.
ClandonMan, Guildford, Surrey
Hi there, Advice please. We have inherited a garden that is full of Mares Tail....... how do we get rid of it.? I am told by the local hardy gardners that it is impossible.
Help please....... ! Many thanks......
tricia lamplugh, hastings, east sussex