Emma Rowley
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Think of Hampstead and you think of leafy North London, filled with the moneyed intelligentsia. The village has been home to Sigmund Freud and a host of writers, thinkers and artists. Property prices have become prohibitive to all but the most successful of creatives, but the aspirational quality is nothing new. The young Evelyn Waugh slogged up the hill to post his letters in the village so they bore a Hampstead postmark rather than a Golders Green one. It is no surprise that the local MP is the former actress and Oscar winner Glenda Jackson.
So where is Hampstead exactly?
Part of the borough of Camden, NW3 lies to the south and west of Hampstead Heath, the untamed parkland that separates it from neighbouring Highgate.
Tell me about houses — and prices Valued at just 50 shillings in the Domesday Book, the village costs rather more today. “Hampstead is always more expensive than its surrounding neighbours,” says Philip Green of Goldschmidt & Howland, a local estate agent. Prices were affected by the slump, but bargain-hunters will find the bottom of the market has passed. Housing in the area is an attractive mix of some “very rare” Queen Anne and Regency properties, as well as Georgian, Edwardian, Victorian and modern developments — from detached houses on leafy avenues to charming cottages on winding lanes. A one or two-bedroom flat costs £300,000 to £500,000, while a two-bedroom cottage will go for £1 million upwards. Any first-time buyers are usually helped by family, who often already live in the village.
Which are the smartest streets?
Which aren’t smart? Church Row, with its elegant Georgian terraces, is one of the most beautiful. The Bishops Avenue — or Billionaires’ Row — is sometimes mentioned as the most expensive, with even flats going for £4 million-plus. However, it is not considered Hampstead by locals, “unless you are a foreign dignitary” says Green. “It is another world.” And a different postcode, N2.
Any architectural gems?
Even the pillar box on the high street is listed (Victorian, circa 1866-79). Not far away is Keats House, which reopened recently after refurbishment to recreate the rooms where the poet wrote Ode to a Nightingale. He was inspired by a bird singing from the plum tree outside the villa, which was also where he nursed his love for the girl next door, Fanny Brawne. Near by is Fenton House, a 17th-century merchant’s estate that Country Life dubbed “London’s most enchanting country house”.
Anywhere to walk the dogs?
Just about. Hampstead Heath is fiercely protected by local campaigners and understandably so. Its 800 acres of wild grass and woodland are unique in London and urbanites flock to enjoy the view of the city from Parliament Hill. The heath is home to Kenwood House, a former stately home that hosts a range of concerts. Then there are the famous swimming ponds, where hardy souls bathe all year round.
What about transport links?
Hampstead Tube station is on the Northern line. The Hampstead Heath overland station is a short walk away in South End Green and from where City types can take the train to Stratford. There is a good bus service into town.
Any good schools?
There are great state and private schools. University College School for boys (with a mixed sixth form) and South Hampstead High School for girls, both independents catering for all ages, are spoken of highly, as is Fitzjohn’s Primary, a state school.
What about the nightlife?
There are plenty of good pubs and restaurants. Spaniards Inn on the edge of the heath is said to have been frequented by Dick Turpin, but much has changed since the highwayman’s day — the pub now offers an organic menu for dogs. In the middle of the village there is a tiny Everyman cinema where you can enjoy waitress service as you share a double seat with your date. For clubs, the younger crowd will head to trendy Camden.
Any downsides?
Village life this idyllic is not cheap.
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