Jenny McBain
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Unheralded and unseen, they roam the countryside, looking over hedges and examining piles of stones on hill tops. Stirred by thoughts of blood-drenched battlefields and angry, baying armies, they prize one thing above all others - capturing a castle.
They are the “castle-hunters”, a small band of enthusiasts who scour Scotland for forgotten fortifications upon which they can lavish their attention.
David Johnston is a member of the group, and has bought Balintore Castle - a derelict Victorian ruin near the village of Kirriemuir in Angus - for £80,000. Some people find Balintore's air of gothic grandeur spooky and unsettling, but Johnston brims with enthusiasm.
“This castle has exactly the kind of dark, baronial look I like. I like tall buildings that are kind of gaunt and a bit forbidding,” he says.
Castle-hunters are not necessarily wealthy; they are simply fired by passion for architectural heritage and a yearning to live graciously, beyond the limitations of modern homes. Johnston took possession of the ruin in January last year, and such was his devotion that he changed jobs and moved from Oxford, where he still owns a semi-detached house. He spent last summer camping out in the castle's former laundry until concerned friends persuaded him to live on the castle site in a caravan.
Johnston, who's originally from Prestwick, now commutes 50 miles daily to Dundee to work for a computer-gaming company. And when he is not designing virtual cities for games such as Crackdown, he is fully immersed in the massive restoration project.
Life is tough for him because of the state that Balintore is in. He has to collect rainwater to wash his dishes, and takes showers at work.
Johnston first saw the castle in the year 2000, but spent months in futile negotiations with the previous owner. Eventually Angus council issued a compulsory purchase order, and then sold the castle to Johnston.
He says: “I think living in a ruin or in a caravan is nothing compared with the effort of pushing so hard for a compulsory purchase. I am prepared to do whatever it takes to restore this building.”
Balintore is a Category A-listed building, built in 1860 for a member of the Lyon family - relations of the late Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother. It was commissioned by David Lyon, a politician who made his fortune through the East India Company. William Burn, the renowned Victorian architect, drew up the plans, and the exterior of the castle was built of blocks of Stirlingshire sandstone.
Wealthy Victorians were unhindered by planning restrictions and were able to build in any spot that took their fancy. So the 50-room castle sits halfway up Cat Law mountain, in a commanding position above Glen Quharity. It appears green, brown or grey, depending on the shifting light.
Although the castle retains much of its original sense of solidity and has good structural integrity, closer inspection reveals just how much work is needed. Two of its four storeys lack floorboards, and the roof needs to be replaced.
Rubble has piled up inside and has to be dug out by hand. This task is being undertaken by a labourer for one day each week, and by Johnston and his friends in their spare time. Having no power or water has added to the challenges in the past 15 months. Mains electricity has now been installed, but there is still no water source. Commercial developers steered shy of the castle because of these problems and also because it is so remote and comes with virtually no land. The castle has only a 32ft strip of grass beyond its perimeter walls.
So just where do you start with such an ambitious project?
Johnston says: “You could spend a fortune restoring Balintore Castle. It could easily absorb £3m to £4m. Clearly, I don't have that kind of money, so I plan to concentrate first of all on consolidating the building by fixing the roof and putting in windows.
“The single-storey kitchen wing on the north side is being adapted into a comfortable house so there will be a semi-detached dwelling with a ruin to one side. Once those things have been achieved, I intend to work on the interior, room by room, as funds become available.”
Over the years, bounty-hunters have gone off with portable spoils, including entire wooden staircases. This means there are areas of his property, on upper floors, that Johnston has yet to see.
As an expansive host, who is continually holding castle parties, key goals are planned around proposed social events. “When I eventually gain access to the roof of the main tower, I intend to hold a cocktail party. That should happen in about five or 10 years' time,” he says.
News that a caring owner is now in situ has motivated some locals to return their trophies, much to Johnston's delight. “I am declaring a Balintore amnesty. If anyone has got a piece of the castle, please let me know. I am not angry that people have taken things, I am just happy if they have looked after them and are bringing them back. I have had whole windows, lead weights, grilles and stone pillars handed in.”
As well as working on the restoration of the castle, Johnston is also devoting considerable time to a campaign opposing a proposal to site six wind turbines within spitting distance. He says the idea goes against the values that drove the council to fight for the building's preservation.
Johnston is adamant his castle will be his home and will not be run as a business. As to what he, as a single person, will do with 50 rooms, the answer is simple. He will be able to comfortably accommodate his extensive network of friends and throw interesting weekend parties.
Johnston's commitment to the restoration is set to occupy the next 20 years. “I could go through my life without restoring a castle, but I feel this will be rewarding,” he says. “I think having an ambitious project is a good thing because it keeps you occupied. In a way it's almost an arbitrary goal, but it's based on something I love, which is architecture.
Tips for relic hunters
You don't need pots of money to restore a castle - although it does help. For those who fancy a challenge, Terry Levinthal of the Scottish Civic Trust offers a few pointers:
- Do not underestimate the scale of the task when taking on an old building.
- Consider carefully the land around the restoration you are considering - other buildings could ruin your outlook.
- The older and more ruinous a building, the more likely that there will be hidden costs.
- Be aware of the regulatory systems and processes that are in place for listed buildings. They exist for a reason.
- Produce a conservation plan to outline the elements of the building that are of cultural value.
- Always work with a building rather than against it
- You may well be in by Christmas, but it may not be the Christmas you were thinking of.
- Historic Scotland and the Scottish Civic Trust are making a difinitve list of all the buildings at risk throughout Scotland.
- If you are prepared to do a lot of the work yourself over time, you can end up with a property that represents good value.
Buchanan Castle is a catergory B-listed building in the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. Prospective investors should have a look at this one.
Aberdeenshire offers a rich hunting ground for would-be mansion owners. See The Buildings at Risk Register for Scotland online at www.buildingsatrisk.org.uk
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