Emma Wells
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You might think a yearly rental fee of £11,500 for the grand Georgian former home of Henry James in Rye, East Sussex, is something of a bargain – but tenancy of Grade II*-listed Lamb House isn’t simply a matter of reclining in the oak-panelled parlour and contemplating the American-born writer’s work.
Living there means taking on responsibilities that include greeting at least 7,000 members of the general public a year, on two afternoons a week between March and October – James fans descend on the house, at the top of cobbled West Street, in droves – as well as taking the entrance money and keeping records of visitor numbers. You’ll also need to be well acquainted with the writer’s life and works: many of your visitors will be James scholars from across the Atlantic.
The four-storey, brick-fronted five-bedroom house was donated to the National Trust in 1948 by the widow of James’s nephew and heir, “as a symbol of ties that unite the British and American peoples”, and became part of the trust’s long-term tenancy scheme. The most recent occupants, Sarah Philo, 30, and her boyfriend, John Senior, 59, both educational writers, moved out two weeks ago, and it is now in need of tenants.
You don’t have to be a writer to live here, says James Hole, of Strutt & Parker’s Canterbury office, which is handling the tenancy – but you do have to be house-proud. The National Trust stipulates that white gloves must be worn to dust the many antiques, and a few of James’s own possessions, on display. But, as the guidebook provided cautions, don’t dust too much: that’s how things get broken.
Such obligations explain the modest rent – Hole says that an equivalent property could fetch about £20,000 on the open market. Yet the opportunity to live in the house where the author created his masterpieces captures the imagination of many people. “We’ve had a hell of a response,” Hole says. “Within a 10-day period, my list had about 85 people on it wanting to apply, including a television presenter from Los Angeles. But you’ll have to get involved. It’s quite a commitment.”
If you think you’d make the ideal tenant, you’ll need to hurry – applications officially close this weekend, although Hole says he would consider someone “spectacular”.
“It is a bit like living in a museum,” says Essex-born Philo, “but I like that.” Philo and Senior first visited Lamb House a few years ago, chiefly as fans of EF Benson – the writer of Mapp and Lucia rented the house in the 1920s. “This place draws you in,” Philo says. “It’s incredibly special.” So special that they applied for tenancy and moved into the house in 2005.
James moved to London in 1876, then left for Rye in 1898, staying there until he died, 18 years later. He adored the red roofs and cobbled streets of the old town, and wrote of the house, which dates from 1723: “It is really good enough to be a kind of little, becoming, high-door’d, brass-knocker’d facade to one’s life.” It was there, in the garden room – a detached hall that was destroyed by a bomb during the second world war – and the green-panelled study on the first floor that he wrote the late works many critics consider his finest: The Wings of the Dove, The Ambassadors and The Golden Bowl.
Philo’s tour of the ground-floor public rooms, filled with exhibits (tenants have private rooms on the top two floors), reveals how living in James’s home means living very close to the man himself. In the dining room, tenants can have breakfast overseen by a bust of a boy sculpted by Hendrik Andersen, which James brought back from one of his European trips and mentioned fondly in letters to friends. In the high-ceilinged hallway hang drawings of his friends and correspondents, including fellow writers Conrad, Kipling and Gosse. In the oak-panelled parlour, you can stand on the rug that Edith Wharton – James’s dazzling protégée, who later outstripped him in popularity – once trod, and admire his library of first editions.
Philo, who admits she didn’t know much about James at first, has clearly learnt a lot – “He has grown on me enormously,” she says. After two years, however, the couple felt their time for custodianship of the house was up. “It’s an intense thing to do,” Philo says. “And the garden is a big job,” adds Senior of the two acres of walled grounds that need to be kept as they appear in old photos. Yet the couple plan to stay in the area, so enamoured are they of the Cinque Port of Rye.
If you have aspirations to the literary life, but don’t fancy having to let the public over your threshold, there are plenty of other properties available for sale or rent.
For something a bit racy, head up to the Nottinghamshire countryside, where DH Lawrence set many of his best-loved – and infamous – novels. Retrace the writer’s steps through the woods in the hamlet of Moorgreen, where he imagined the scandalous trysts between upper-class Constance, trapped in a sexless marriage, and the taciturn gamekeeper Mellors, set out in Lady Chatterley’s Lover in 1928.
These forests – part of the original Sherwood Forest – inspired Wragby, the remote Chatterley family estate, and it was here that the Lawrentian themes of nature and man’s alienation from it in an industrial world were formed. “It’s absolutely beautiful here. Lawrence, who was brought up just a mile away in Eastwood, wrote about the landscape he knew, as well as the local people,” says Howard Pratt, 57, a structural engineer who has owned Beauvale House, a Grade II*-listed property surrounded by woods in Moorgreen, since the late 1980s.
Moreover, Lawrence almost certainly visited Beauvale House, built in 1873, as he had a friend on the staff there, and it is believed that he used it as a model for the Beardsall family’s home in The White Peacock, his first novel, published in the UK in 1911. He writes that the house “dozed in sunlight, and slept profoundly in the shade thrown by the massive maples encroaching from the wood”.
“It’s a complete one-off,” says Pratt of his home, built as a hunting lodge by EW Godwin for the 7th Earl Cowper. With six bedrooms, four reception rooms, a 90ft tower and 5,960 sq ft of living space, it is for sale for £1.4m with Humberts (0115 950 5444, www.humberts.co.uk).
Fans of contemporary literature might do better to head down to west Somerset, following the trail of the bestselling novelist and children’s writer Penelope Lively. In 2001, she wrote a memoir, A House Unlocked, in which she recalls her many childhood visits to her grandparents’ home, Golsoncott House, in Rodhuish.
In the book, she reconstructs life there through memories of her family (her grandparents bought the house in 1923, and it stayed in the family until the 1990s) and everyday objects such as potted-meat jars and needlework samplers. “The house as I knew it exists only in my mind,” she writes in the preface. “The furnishings are precise and clear, the sounds and smells are as they ever were . . . ahead of me, the garden door frames a green section of Somerset.” She decided to set domestic life against two shattering events in European history, the Blitz and the Holocaust. “I thought I would see if the private life of a house could be made to bear witness to the public traumas of a century,” she explains.
Built in the Lutyens style in 1912, Grade II-listed Golsoncott sits in 13 acres and has five bedrooms, a staff flat, a lake and a stable block. Its last owner died recently, and the beamed house, with its glorious views over Exmoor national park, is available to shape a new owner’s interior life and landscape. It is for sale for £1.75m with Jackson-Stops & Staff (01823 325144, www.jackson-stops.co.uk).
For inquiries about tenancy at Lamb House, contact Strutt & Parker; 01227 473729, www.struttandparker.co.uk
Novel homes
Beauvale House, which inspired DH Lawrence: £1.4m, Humberts; www.humberts.co.uk
Golsoncott, Penelope Lively’s family home: £1.75m, Jackson-Stops & Staff; www.jackson-stops.co.uk
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