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Purists are spluttering over their decanters after a fine wine-maker announced plans for drinkers to take their wine through a straw from small plastic cartons.
The containers, like those used for lunchbox-sized fruit juices, go on sale in supermarkets next month in the latest attempt by the French wine industry to boost consumption among young urbanites.
Produced by Cordier Mestrezat, which has been selling fine wines since 1886, the 25cl product, called Tandem, will arrive in Britain next week at the London International Wine Fair.
“Instead of buying a soda to go with their sandwich, people might want a bit of Bordeaux,” David Bolzan, the managing director of Cordier Mestrezat, said. “If you’re having lunch at your desk and you want a drop of wine, you’re not going to get a bottle, a glass and a corkscrew. But you could buy a carton.”
His box comes with a “sensory straw” with four holes to send a spray of wine around the palate and “ensure you enjoy exactly the same sensations as with a wine glass”, according to Cordier Mestrezat.
However, traditionalists said that the initiative would deprive them of two of their greatest pleasures – the wine’s bouquet and colour. “You won’t be able to smell the wine before drinking it and that’s very important to me,” said Aurélien Maubert, a salesman at Lavinia wine store in Paris. “And you won’t be able to see it either inside the carton. I certainly won’t be buying this.”
But with annual wine consumption in France falling from 100 litres per person to 54 litres during the past 40 years, Mr Bolzan said that it was important for producers to move with the times.
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I first encountered this at a Whole Foods Market in SanFrancisco. But it was Pinot Gris. I'm drawn to new packaging, and the four-pack of individual servings was perfect for my busy weekend. It was convenient also to sip my wine while in a taxi. But I didn't use the straw.
MIchelle, Oregon, US
The dumbing down of wine continues. Bet we will soon see Paris Hilton, Britney Spears and other "celebutards" photographed waviing around these new wines as they come out of their homes or shops. Will be interesting to see how they balance it with their dogs and other must-have fashion accessories
jlbrown, Plymouth, USA
Well they're not intended for every occasion, just those moments when, as David Bolzan said, its too inconvenient to carry a bottle and glass with you, a picnic, a sunny afternoon in the park, the beach, use your imagination.
Pete Knight, Worc's, UK
I can only imagine one type of person sucking wine through a straw wile having a sandwich at their desk: a rather sad alcoholic!
Herbert, St Andrews, UK
Fench wines are one of the worst wines l have ever tasted, dont really recommend it to know body.
EKNUMAN, London, United Kingdom
Next imagine wine in alcopop style beer bottles.
Sat night out in town will never be the same again
vruti patel, Kingston, Surrey
I for one will be trying it. Of course wine is better in a glass but fruit juices are also better when freshly pressed and many of us drink them from small cartons for convenience on the go. The wine carton is just vin de table with lunch in the 21st century.
Heather Rome, Maidenhead, United Kingdom
I can assure Angela in Oz that the French have been producing "le bag-in-box" for vin-de-pays and basic appellations like Muscadet for about seven years in sensible sizes of three, five and even ten litres !
Alex, Fontenay-le-Comte, France
Excellent idea, great for summer picnics. I would be willing to forgo the bouquet, I can make up for it in the evenings with a proper bottle!
Sally, Letchworth Garden City, UK
At last a super idea for a product that is mass produced
Yes not all wines are mass produced but most Bordeaux is
(note I said''Most' )
If it does not work at least they will have given it a try, it is all about volume of production at the end of the day. When these cartons are involved
Nicholas Iles, Oswestry, Shropshire
Perfect for drinking on the tube though!
Ruth, London,
Chaucer wrote about drinking wine through a straw. They were at it over 600 years ago.
Frank Upton, Solihull,
You can not claim to sell "fine wines" and then serve them in this way. They will not be fine consumed from a box with a straw no matter how fine they were when leaving the chateau. The french believe that the Brits will drink anything. Is this aimed at the more refined elements of Brit yob culture?
Matt, Antibes, France
Like it. Unfortunately the idea of an individual drinking alchohol at their desk is alien to UK business culture, so this concept will have to remain just that.
matthew, london,
c'est dommage.
H. C. Bresson, Beune, France
I see that the French have learned from the success of Aussie winemakers although I note that they have inexplicably downsized from a sensible 4-litre box with carry handle. The straw's a good idea though.
Angela, Epping, Australia